Levi’s jeans are among the most recognisable, and most frequently copied, pieces of clothing in the world. Some counterfeits are immediately obvious, while better examples can look convincing until you examine the details closely.
Our team has handled thousands of pairs of vintage Levi’s over the years. When assessing a pair of Levi's, we never rely on one feature alone. We look at the construction, labels, hardware and overall consistency of the garment.
This guide explains the main checks you can make before buying a pair of vintage or pre-loved Levi’s jeans.
Important: Levi’s has produced jeans in numerous countries, factories and eras. Genuine details can vary considerably. One unusual feature does not automatically mean that a pair is counterfeit. Look for several conflicting details before reaching a conclusion.
Start by identifying the type and approximate age
Before authenticating a pair, establish what the jeans are supposed to be.
Modern premium products can carry details traditionally associated with older jeans. For example, Levi’s reintroduced the Big E tab on selected premium products in 2018. A Big E tab therefore does not, by itself, prove that a garment was made before 1971.
Begin by checking:
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The model or lot number
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The stated country of manufacture
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The care-label style
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The fabric composition
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The apparent age and wear
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Whether all these details agree with one another
A counterfeit is often exposed by inconsistencies rather than one obvious mistake.
1. Check the number behind the top button
Turn over the main waistband button and look for a stamped factory or production code.
Genuine Levi’s commonly carry a clearly stamped code on the reverse of this button. The exact number varies because Levi’s has used numerous factories and production systems.
The important question is not whether a particular number appears, but whether the stamp looks clean and corresponds with the information found on the internal labels.
Warning signs include:
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A crude, shallow or irregular stamp
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Poorly finished metalwork
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A suspiciously generic or decorative marking
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Hardware that differs noticeably from the other buttons and rivets
Some counterfeiters stamp “501” behind the button because it is the model number. We have encountered this on fake pairs, usually a stamp of "501" is a clear sign of fake Levi's, these stamps are factory codes, not model codes.
2. Examine the Two Horse patch
The Levi's paper or leather patch is one of the classic signs of fake Levi's
On many 1990s and 2000s 501s, the familiar Two Horse design appears on a leather-like card patch. Its precise colour, texture, wording and typography can change between production periods and markets.
Genuine patches from different eras do not always look identical. Differences in the waist and leg-size typefaces can be legitimate.
Instead, look for a combination of problems:
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Glossy or plastic-looking finish to the patch
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Blurred or poorly reproduced artwork
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Misspellings or strange additional wording
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Incorrect proportions
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Inconsistent typefaces
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Uneven attachment stitching
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A new-looking patch on heavily worn jeans, or the reverse
Natural wear is also relevant. A genuine card patch may soften, crease, fade or partially disintegrate after years of washing. Ageing should look reasonably consistent with the rest of the jeans.
Two genuine card patches from different production periods.
Genuine Levi’s 501 patches can use slightly different fonts and layouts.
Fake jeans producers like to use a plastic effect card which has a light sheen to it. They also feature poor, inconsistent fonts and additional or incorrect text.
Counterfeit Patch. An excellent example of a terrible counterfeit! 3 'X's after 501, incorrect font and poor stitching attaching the patch.
Counterfeit patch. Featuring the plastic sheen and incorrect font on waist and leg measurement. This patch also features poor stitching visible on the bottom right and top left of the patch. A clear sign of fake Levis 501s
Counterfeit patch. Considerably better than the above example however still clearly incorrect font.
3. Inspect the Arcuate pocket stitching
The double-arc stitching on the back pockets is known as the Arcuate design and is one of Levi’s most distinctive trademarks.
Genuine stitching still varies. Older jeans may have wear, repairs, loose threads or small production imperfections. The two pockets may not be perfectly symmetrical after years of use.
However, poorly made counterfeits often show:
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Badly proportioned arcs
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Missing or misplaced central intersections
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Lines that finish in visibly different positions
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Uneven stitch length
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Shapes that do not resemble the normal Levi’s pocket design
Assess the entire construction rather than demanding machine-perfect stitching from a used garment.
Counterfeit rear-pocket stitching missing the correct central formation.
A better counterfeit with an off-centre or poorly formed Arcuate.
Furthermore, structural stitching will also usually be poor or loose, or just totally alien to standard Levi's design.
Counterfeit Stitching. Poorly stitched, loose thread and rough edges visible throughout.
Genuine Levi's Button Stitching. Clean stitches with classic Levi's orange thread.
4. Look closely at the Red Tab
The Red Tab is attached to the seam of the right rear pocket. Levi’s introduced it on in 1936 to distinguish its products from competing denim.
Check:
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The shape and proportions of the tab
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The quality and consistency of the lettering
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How neatly it is incorporated into the pocket seam
Do not assume that a blank tab means the jeans are fake. Levi’s confirms that a proportion of its tabs carry only the registered trademark symbol rather than the Levi’s name. These are genuine “blank tabs.”
Be cautious about treating one thread colour or tiny printing variation as a universal rule. Production differences exist, so the tab should support the wider evidence rather than decide the result alone.
Genuine Red Tabs can show minor differences depending on age, wear and production.
Counterfeit Red Tab. Clearly showing black thread running through the tab.
You can read more in our complete guide to vintage Levi’s tabs.
5. Check the internal care labels
Care labels are particularly useful because they provide several pieces of information that can be compared with the rest of the jeans.
Depending on the age and market, they may show:
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Product or style number
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Waist and leg measurements
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Fabric composition
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Country of manufacture
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Washing instructions
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A date or production code
Look for poor printing, obvious spelling mistakes, inconsistent fonts or information that contradicts the outside of the garment.
For example, be cautious if the outside patch identifies the jeans as 501s but the internal information refers to a different model.
Labels have changed substantially over time, so comparing them with a confirmed example from the same period is much more reliable than comparing them with any random pair of Levi’s.
Inside pocket stamp
Some genuine Levis will have the large ‘genuine pair of Levis’ jeans stamp on the inside pocket. However, many genuine pairs do not feature this. Thus we don’t suggest you use its presence as a determining factor in working out whether you have a fake or genuine pair.
However, fake pairs may carry an inside pocket stamp which features misspellings or inaccuracies. An obvious sign of a fake pair of jeans.
Buying vintage Levi’s from Dwylo
Every pair we offer is inspected before being listed, with measurements, condition and notable repairs described as clearly as possible.
Browse our current Levi’s collection or explore all vintage jeans.
If you are uncertain about a pair you already own, we may not always be able to authenticate it conclusively from photographs. However, this guide should help you identify which details deserve closer inspection.
Dwylo is an independent vintage-clothing retailer and is not affiliated with, endorsed by or sponsored by Levi Strauss & Co. Levi’s, 501, the Red Tab, Two Horse and Arcuate marks belong to their respective owner.